Disaster Tips for Reptiles & Amphibians



Are you prepared to take care of your reptile or amphibian when a disaster strikes? If not, NOW is the time to stock up on the items that you will need so you will not be caught unprepared. Listed below is a handy shopping list for you to use. The next time you buy food or supplies for your herptile (reptile or amphibian), take this list with you. Don't put off doing what you should do now - it may just make the difference between being able to keep your herptile alive when a disaster strikes or losing it.

Here are the supplies that you should have in a disaster kit for reptiles and amphibians. Adjust the amounts, depending on the number that you have.   Please keep in mind that there are such varied needs for all the different species of reptiles and amphibians. You will need to be familiar with your particular species to know which items apply to you.

  • FOOD
    Have at least a two (2) week supply at all times. Since you may not be able to obtain fresh vegetables or fruits during a disaster, then you can also keep frozen vegetables or fruit on hand for emergencies. It is a good idea to also have an ice chest to keep frozen vegetables or fruit in to keep them cold longer in case you are without power. Another alternative would be canned fruits and vegetables stored in their natural juices and with no salt added, or even baby food jars of fruits and vegetables. Be sure to try these foods on your own pet to make sure they will accept it as a food source prior to a disaster, so that you are not surprised with a pet that will not eat. Some species of reptiles have pelleted diets available as well. If using a pelleted diet, be sure to store in an airtight, water proof container and rotate food at least once every (3) months. If your herptile eats from a bowl, include one in your disaster kit, and if you are using canned fruits and vegetables, include a hand crank can opener. If your herptile is fed a live food, then remember to consider their needs for evacuation as well.
  • SUPPLEMENTATION
    Many species of herptiles require additional diet supplements such as calcium or vitamins. Be sure to include these in your disaster kit.
  • WATER
    Have at least a two (2) week supply. Store water in plastic containers and keep in a cool, dark place. Rotate water at least once every (2) months. Do not use distilled water. Since regular tap water has chemicals that can be toxic to herptiles, you will need to include dechlorinator drops in your kit. (This can be purchased at any aquarium supply store). Depending on the species, you may need a bowl for drinking or one large enough for the entire herptile to fit into (remember that many amphibians actually absorb water through their skin and need to be able to submerse themselves). Some herptiles will drink water droplets off of the sides of tanks or leaves. For these herptiles, you will need a spray bottle so that you can mist the tank to create these droplets. Remember to also dechlorinate this water as well. Spray bottles can also be good for helping to maintain a higher humidity for the herptiles that come from a more tropical climate. Another way to boost humidity and provide water droplets is to place some ice cubes on top of the screened top over plants – the melted water will drip down onto leaves for easy lapping. If your herptile is aquatic, then you will also want to include an air pump or “bubbler” to aerate the water if power is available.
  • SUBSTRATE
    The substrate you use will vary greatly depending on the species of herptile you have, and some species may not require one at all. Some herptiles will need a substrate that they can burrow into.This can be sterilized leaves, sphagnum moss or river sand. Another easy way to achieve this is with regular potting soil, but be sure that it does not contain any chemicals. Other substrates that can be used are unprinted newspaper, butcher paper, paper towels (for smaller species), pine chips (not cedar, which can be toxic), linoleum, Astroturf or reptile green carpet. Also keep in mind that many herptiles can ingest the substrate with their food and can cause impaction. For this reason, be sure that the substrate you choose is not small enough to be ingested. If using Astroturf or green carpet, it is a good idea to have two pieces so that one can replace the other when being cleaned.
  • HEAT SOURCE
    All herptiles are ectotherms, meaning that they do not produce internal body heat. Instead their temperature is determined by their surrounding environment. There are several different alternatives to providing heat for your herptile. If it is an aquatic herptile, such as aquatic frogs, then you will want to include a submersible aquarium heater with thermostat, as well as a submersible thermometer. You may also choose to use an incandescent bulb with a clamp style lamp, ceramic heat emitters set up in porcelain sockets, heat lamp (for larger enclosures) or an under tank heater. You may even use a heating pad made for human use. Be sure to have the cage set up so that the heat source is at one end and that the herptile can move back and forth to a cooler end to regulate body temperature. Some people choose to use heat rocks, but be advised they are notorious for overheating and causing burns. If you must use a heat rock, then be sure to purchase one with a temperature regulator. Also, to help defuse the heat, you can attach a flat rock to the top with silicone sealer. If you are using a white light for daytime heat and if your herptile will also need heat during the evening, then have on hand a light made for nighttime use, as bright light more than 12-14 hours a day can cause additional stress to your herptile. If using lights for heat, be sure to keep them behind wire mesh to avoid burns if your herptile is able to climb. Do not try to guess the temperature in your enclosure: you must use thermometers. Ideally, one should be placed in both the cool and warm ends. Proper heat can also determine if your herptile will eat and if they will digest the foods they eat.
  • FULL-SPECTRUM UVB LIGHT
    Most non-nocturnal herptiles will also need a full–spectrum UVB light source. This will give your herptile sufficient levels of UVA and UVB in order to allow vitamin D3 synthesis and utilization of calcium. Incandescent lights that are suitable for heat sources do not provide the full-spectrum required by many herptiles. Plant lights and most aquarium lights are wide-spectrum rather than full-spectrum. If you include an UVB light in your disaster kit, be sure to also include the lamp to hold the fluorescent tube/bulb.
  • EVACUATION CAGE
    If your herptile enclosure is too large to take with you, then you will want to obtain an evacuation cage. If your herptile needs to have the temperature regulated, then a solid walled cage is often best, such as a small aquarium or plastic critter cage. Be sure that the lid fits securely and that there are no gaps anywhere in the cage, especially for snakes, as they are expert escape artists. Also, make sure that the cage has no sharp edges. If you have a wire cage, then you will want to include a towel or cover in your disaster kit to cover the cage in the event that you need to hold more heat inside. Also, if your herptile requires live foods, then you will also need an evacuation cage for those as well.
  • CAGE ACCESSORIES
    While cage accessories are not essential, they can greatly reduce the stress on your herptile during the disaster. Some of these would include a hide box – this can be a bowl, box, a flower pot turned on its side or even a log leaned up on the side of the enclosure. This provides a secluded place for your herptile to hide in or under, which can make it feel more secure. A flat, smooth rock to bask on, set under or over the main heat source. Wood logs that have been sanitized or artificial plants to climb on. Even live potted plants that are safe for herptiles.
  • MEDICATIONS
    If your reptile is on long-term medication, always have on hand at least a two (2) week supply, since your vet may also be affected by the disaster and may not be able to fill prescriptions right away.
  • FIRST AID SUPPLIES AND BOOK FOR REPTILES/AMPHIBIANS
    Check with your veterinarian to get a recommendation of what to include in your first aid kit. Some suggested items include antibiotic ointment, Betadine solution for cleansing and disinfecting, gauze for cuts and wounds, cornstarch to stop minor bleeding, tweezers and scissors and Q-tips.
  • CLEANING SUPPLIES
    Include a small container of soap for washing out your herptile’s food and water dish. Include some paper towels for drying the dishes and other cleanup of the enclosure. Include a disinfectant that can be used to clean the enclosure. Be sure to rinse all dishes/enclosures very well, as herptiles are very sensitive to chemicals ingested or absorbed through the skin.
  • ELECTRICAL CORD(S)
    Remember to include a heavy duty electrical extension cord so that you can use your light or heat sources, as well as aquatic heaters & air pumps. An indoor/outdoor extension cord is best. Also remember that power may be out, and a generator is a good backup to have on hand.
  • ADDITIONAL SUPPLIES
    In addition to having the above supplies, here are some other suggestions for keeping your herptile safe:
    • If you are creating a water area for your herptile to climb into, be sure to include a slope or step for the herptile to be able to climb out of the water.
    • Check to make sure your enclosure is secure. All opening doors/lids should be fastened to prevent them from opening during a disaster. Be sure you do not keep the enclosure under a shelf where objects might fall during a disaster. If using a metal cage, also keep a pair of pliers and wire in your disaster supplies to make any necessary repairs to the cage after a disaster.
    • Take some recent pictures of your reptile or amphibian, including any distinguishing marks. This is to help locate your herptile should it get loose during a disaster. Include yourself in some of the pictures for proof of guardianship.
    • If you have a larger reptile, then you may want to consider getting it microchipped. Check with your veterinarian for more information about this permanent form of identification.
    • lso check with your veterinarian to see if he/she has a disaster plan should your herptile need emergency care following a disaster. Locate a back up veterinarian just in case yours is not available.


Reprinted by permission of United Animal Nations





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